Five days before our weeks annual leave in July, we decided to book a last minute trip to Croatia. Paul and I had been to Croatia twice before and absolutely love the country. We had visited Dubrovnik on a long weekend with friends and also been on another ten day trip taking in Pula, Rovinj, Split and Hvar. Croatia is a stunning country, filled with turquoise sea views and houses with orange roof tops that glisten in the sun. It’s easy to see how it’s becoming more and more popular for tourism especially with it being cheaper than neighbouring Italy.
I was diagnosed as coeliac for both trips but they were a long time before my blogging days so between that and closures from the pandemic I didn’t really have any up to date recommendations for myself. Therefore, this guide is from my recent road trip including some places we had on our gluten free list but didn’t visit, so it is more of a highlights reel and list of my research as I didn’t stay long in cities this time with some additional tips and photographs from my previous visits thrown in.
Having been to Croatia before, and wanting to visit Plitvice National Park we hired a car for this holiday and we stuck to the mainland of Croatia driving from Dubrovnik to Pula taking in the highlights – an itinerary that I wouldn’t recommend on our timescale without previous stays in Dubrovnik and Split. Due to this, this country guide has been split up by destination so that you can refer to where you are going.
Before getting into it, I thought I would link to Valamar hotels first who state on their website that they can cater for gluten free and seem to have some excellent trip advisor reviews. They have various hotels in the country, so do try and check the reviews for the accommodation that you are interested in but they seem to be a great place to start when researching options in Croatia.
Dubrovnik
We originally weren’t planning on visiting Dubrovnik on this holiday beyond the airport, so I did no research for the city. However, after an early morning flight and being busy from work we decided to have an easier first day of mooching around somewhere we had been before. We strolled around Dubrovnik, Paul went in the sea whilst I dipped my feet in and we got a delicious seafood lunch.
I used the Find me gluten free app as I visited Dubrovnik with no planning at all. This led us to Konoba Saint Blase as an option in the heart of Dubrovnik. As soon as I had shown my gluten free translation card they wanted me to have pasta and I could choose from bolognaise, a creamy pasta or seafood. I opted for the seafood pasta and it was delicious and absolutely packed full of prawns, mussels and calamari. They also confirmed they use fresh water and cook it all fresh.
Paul also really enjoyed his lunch of calamari and greek salad. His looked to be naturally gluten free so with a bit more perseverance it may be possible to have other dishes. This may also be needed as recent Find Me Gluten Free Reviews suggest they frequently run out of gluten free pasta so definitely research some back up options, or have a translation card and some perseverance to order a gluten free alternative.
Igra Gluten Free Street Food 100% GF
I wasn’t aware of any dedicated gluten free restaurants in Dubrovnik but after coming home and posting about the country a follower tagged this restaurant in the comments which looks like a newly opened 100% gluten free restaurant. It opens in the mornings for breakfast and lunch, and then again in the evenings so looks to be a must visit spot for any coeliac heading to the city! It is showing as temporarily closed again online so I’m hoping that’s a seasonal closure for winter and will check again in early 2024.
From checking the more recent reviews I saw some restaurants that are rated much more highly now on the app than Konoba Saint Blaise and I have this saved for my next trip to Dubrovnik – Pizzeria Mamma Mia that has many high ratings for gluten free pasta and pizza, and the reviews suggest that gluten free items are prepared in a separate kitchen but I couldn’t find any mention of this online. Mex Cantina Bona Fide also seems to be highly rated for some Mexican cuisine.
Sightseeing
On our long weekend trip to Croatia in 2015 we rode the cable car for views over Dubrovnik and it’s definitely a must do on a first trip! This time we got our views over Dubrovnik when we left the city by car.
We also did a buggy tour with friends that we would recommend (but check it’s covered in your insurance!) it was loads of fun but we ended up covered in orange sand and made good use of our sunglasses, and wet wipes!
Three Island Day Trip
In 2015 we went on a day trip from Dubrovnik by boat to three islands – Kolocep, Lopud and Sipan. I can’t recall which tour operator we used, but we had a lovely day out at sea with a freshly cooked fish lunch and I would recommend doing something similar especially if you’re only visiting on a city break.
Where to stay: Dubrovnik
On our trip with friends we stayed at The Hilton in Dubrovnik. This time we stayed further out on the coast as we had a car at Hotel Uvala. We would definitely return to this area and loved spending the morning exploring the seafront although I wouldn’t go out of my way to return to this particular hotel or go there for gluten free options. I will definitely look to try one of the Valamar hotels in Dubrovnik next time.
Hvar
We stayed on Hvar in 2013 and loved our time on the island. I don’t have any up to date recommendations, but Dalmatio is highly recommended on Find Me Gluten Free due to having a coeliac owner and it would be my first stop if I ever returned to Hvar.
KrKa National Park
We spent an afternoon exploring Krka National Park, and it was worth the stop (Plitvice Lakes is the one though if you don’t have time to see both).
I didn’t see any gluten free food options in the park, not even in the icecream/ice lolly options so travel prepared! There were signs for gluten free and vegan drinks but when I asked about them I was told it was a new sign and they weren’t stocked yet! (Fingers crossed they now are!)
Lošinj
On this trip we wanted the last couple of nights to be a bit more chilled having driven from Dubrovnik up to Plitvice Lakes over four days. We needed a location between Plitvice Lakes and Pula where we were flying home from and if we had more time I would have loved to stay at Vitality Hotel Punta as it has coeliac accreditation. However, it just wasn’t possible for the couple of days that we had due to its island location so in the end we decided to stay in beautiful Opatija on the sea.
Opatija
Opatija is a beautiful location but not one for the gluten free bucket list. One of the restaurants we visited originally stated they couldn’t do anything at all for me being coeliac but with some perseverance I got a naturally gluten free dish of tuna steak and sweet potato. It’s not a restaurant I’d recommend but many restaurants in Croatia offer seafood and dishes that you could ask to be prepared safely if needed as long as you guide them through the necessary protocols.
The other night we ended up sitting down to eat in what must be one of the fanciest restaurants in the area, and it cost us €50pp but for that we had scallops to start, and seafood or steak for the main with wine and beer. A fancy meal and expensive compared to other prices we paid in Croatia but pretty good for fine dining and they were excellent in helping me with gluten free options considering it was an unplanned visit.
Plitvice Lakes
Plitvice National Park is a UNESCO world heritage site and it really is spectacular. A National park which you can stroll along wooden board walks taking in all the turquoise blue lakes and waterfalls. We absolutely loved our morning here.
Due to the high temperatures and wanting to beat the crowds, we arrived at 7:15am which was the best decision. By lunch time we had completed walk C talking in the upper and lower lakes, before the midday sun hit or peak crowds when tours start reaching the national park from cities like Split and Zagreb. 100% stay near the park if you can or set off super early as it really is worth it visiting early.
Where to stay: Plitvice Miric Inn
The night before our visit to Plitvice Lakes we stayed at a simple guest house which was perfect for what we needed. A clean double en-suite room cost us £40 and it was near the entrance to the National Park. We didn’t eat here but they were advertising gluten free and vegan options with advance notice so could be an option for an evening meal if you check their cross contamination processes. The owners were lovely and we would really recommend staying here.
Air B n B: Wooden House Vita Natura
We found a lovely air b n b for the day of our visit to the National Park, one in the middle of nowhere with sun loungers and a fire heated hot tub. This wooden chalet style accommodation made for a super relaxing afternoon after visiting Plitvice Lakes and they let us check in early so we could head there straight from the National Park. We had food with us to self cater here.
For our evening meal, we opted for one of our go to travel meals that’s easy to find and simple to prepare – gluten free pasta with pesto and a caprese salad. We also got a watermelon for the afternoon in the sun!
Pula
We visited Pula in 2013 before heading onto beautiful Rovinj. We loved stopping in Pula for lunch and to visit the amphitheatre. For this trip we flew home from Pula, and had time for a quick revisit before heading to the airport but sadly didn’t have time to stop for lunch. If I did I would probably have tried out Jupiter for gluten free pizza which has a lot of reviews on Find Me Gluten Free but many claim that it gets very busy and service is slow so we didn’t have time to chance it.
Where to stay: Hotel Amfiteater
We didn’t stay in Pula but this hotel would have been my first choice if I had with gluten free choices and knowledge clearly advertised on their website.
Rijeka
When we visited Croatia in 2013 we took a ferry from Rijeka to Split to make our way from the North to the Islands and we had time to visit Trsat Castle and have lunch and a wander. This time we made a stop in Rijeka to have a quick lunch which meant I could seek out the gluten free cafe Rica.
I would only visit Rijeka for lunch passing through on the way to or from Istria, or to catch a ferry to the Islands as it is a port city if you have a limited amount of time to explore Croatia.
Found thanks to the awesome 100% Gluten Free resource by Celiac MD we stopped at Rica for lunch. I had a pizza slice and Paul had a pastry which was kind of like a tortilla of sliced potatoes and cheese. I also ordered two iced coffees and a custard slice and it came to just £9.
The custard slice was huge, but topped with marshmallow it was fantastically light and we enjoyed every mouthful. This Kremsnita is a Croatian dessert that I was so grateful to be able to try and I highly recommend a stop in Rijeka just to visit the cafe!
Rovinj
I don’t have any food or drink recommendations (other than make the most of the abundance of truffle!) as we visited Rovinj in 2013 but it should be on your Croatian itinerary as it’s so beautiful! I have fond memories of wandering around Rovinj and taking in the sunset with cocktails sitting on the rocks.
Split
On this trip to Croatia we stayed overnight in Split at Marvie Hotel which has a fabulous restaurant for gluten free. The next day we visited Kupalište Trstenik pebble beach for a couple of hours before heading into Split for lunch.
In the centre of Split, we had a takeaway lunch from Salt gluten free house before heading onto Krka National Park as Split was so hot and busy!
The restaurant for Marvie Hotel had so many options for gluten free, the menu was full of GFs. How do you decide when you have so much choice?!
In the end we shared the taste of Dalmatia starter platter of prosciutto, cheese, walnuts, olives and gluten free bread.
The star of the show though was the handmade truffle ravioli main course which was really spectacular, and not just because I could order ravioli in a restaurant. It tasted unreal (although pretty rich from the truffle!)
I still squeezed in a dessert of panacotta though whilst so many options were available! I would have ordered cheesecake though if I could have managed something a bit heavier!
This hotel is also listed in Laura’s guide to All Inclusive holidays here due to its gluten free options despite offering rooms on a half board rather than all inclusive basis. The hotel wasn’t located in the old town or directly on the beach or sea but it did have a small roof top pool and spa so it was great for an overnight stay but not where I would personally choose to stay for a weeks sun holiday.
The restaurant was fab though, but we booked the room on a bed and breakfast basis and paid for the meal separately despite half board being an option as I saw many reviews saying that you don’t get many options on a half board basis and for our overnight stay our room and meal together didn’t cost us any more than the half board one night stay.
The following morning we had breakfast and they said to ask for gluten free options. I was offered toast and pancakes and something else but I can’t really remember as I stopped at pancakes! They were a must and so good topped with maple syrup but do make sure you’re not in a hurry as they took quite a while to be made.
Salt Gluten Free House – 100% Gluten Free
The online menu showed options for pizza, sandwiches, salads and burgers. Whilst that’s fantastic for me, having limited naturally gluten free options is actually off putting for me to visit as I would never want my friends and family to have to eat gluten free bread as one of their meals on holiday.
We decided in the end that I would head there for a quick lunch on the go whilst Paul picked up a sandwich from a bakery which worked well. Salt is a takeaway with no tables to sit in and eat anyway but you could eat at the park nearby.
I ordered a salami pizza sandwich, which I imagined to be a sandwich with tomato, cheese and salami but it was actually made with pizza dough and no sauce. I was offered ketchup or Mayo but I didn’t fancy either. Served hot it was a great option for something on the go though.
I also ordered a cup of chocolate icecream whilst I was waiting in the heat of Split!
Split was so hot and busy that we didn’t stay long having visited before. I would recommend going off season, or staying in the city to try and get some time in the city without the cruise trip day trippers. Tula, writer of Pretty Planet was in Split whilst we were in Croatia though and if your trip is to Split she has some great posts for things to do.
On our trip in 2013 we went canyoning for the day, and amazingly this was my idea. I hate being underwater so I have no idea how I signed us up for this. I’m glad to say I’ve done it and would check it out if you’re looking for adventure or canyoning in perfectly clear water on your trip.
Zadar
We visited Zadar briefly in 2013 and didn’t revisit on this trip so I don’t have any recent recommendations.
I would definitely have visited this bar if we have gone back to Zadar. It’s listed in a few places as being 100% gluten free but it isn’t very clear what the menu is as it focuses on the bar (possibly not serving food at the moment so be careful before driving out of your way to head here).
Food and Wine Pomalo that was a 100% gluten free recommendation has unfortunately permanently closed.
Zagreb
We were planning to visit Zagreb but in the end skipped it on this trip to have more time to relax in Plitvice and Opatija since it was a holiday as well as a road trip! I had the below recommendations for 100% gluten free restaurants saved though for my visit and I’m hoping to visit soon for a weekend city break.
Bez Glutena
Translating to ‘Gluten Free’ this gluten free store looks to be a must visit in Zagreb!
Vis a vis by Vincek – 100% Gluten Free Bakery
This bakery was definitely on my list to visit! Who doesn’t love a 100% gluten free bakery?
Where to stay in Zagreb: Esplanade Hotel
Ok, definitely not one for budget travellers but for those looking for a luxury stay then the Esplanade Hotel and it’s restaurant in Zagreb look fantastic for a weekend trip to the city. The prices look reasonable for the style of hotel though especially when booked in advance.
Tips for Croatia
- In Europe it’s easy when travelling by car to cross into neighbouring countries. If you have time for a longer trip, it’s really easy to add on a visit to Slovenia (Ljubljana and Lake Bled are beautiful) or do a day trip from Dubrovnik to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina or make it into a longer road trip travelling onto Sarajevo or even Belgrade. Dubrovnik to Belgrade is a road trip currently near the top of my bucket list.
- If you cross into Trieste in Italy, you can also order yourself a gluten free McDonalds that comes with a burger in a bun and not just fries (but I don’t rate the Italian McDonald’s due to the buns being microwaved in plastic bags so they go a bit soggy)
- In Croatia you can eat McDonalds fries if you’re stuck and a couple of items off the menu. The McDonald’s menu is always excellent for highlighting allergens. Use Chrome to open the link and it will translate automatically for you
- Whilst it’s easy to drive into other countries in the EU bordering Croatia, crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina to visit Mostar requires border control checks. It also adds on a €50 surcharge to your rental car costs. What we didn’t realise though was that driving between Croatia and Split, not going via the islands, will require you to cross into Bosnia and Herzegovina and back again as there is 12 miles of coastline that is Bosnia and not Croatia. There was also a surcharge if you planned to drive to the islands
- Take a translation card, it’s needed in some restaurants to explain cross contamination.
- We found it to be extremely hot and busy in July, and would try to avoid this time of year next time. We preferred our trips in Spring and September, but we aren’t huge fans of heat or crowds. We actually travelled between destinations in the middle of the day to be able to escape the midday sun with some air conditioning in the car, and allowing us to sightsee in the mornings and late afternoon
- Pack or buy mosquito spray!
- My instagram posts for Croatia can be found using the hashtag #thesightseeingcoeliaccroatia
Other Gluten Free Resources for Croatia
- Gluten Free Croatia Travel Guide
- Croatia Travel Guide – Coeliac U.K.
- Gluten Free in Split, Croatia
- Gluten Free in Europe: The Ultimate Travel Planning Resource
- Gluten Free Beer in Croatia
Overall thoughts on travelling in Croatia
There is so much less information online for travelling in Europe gluten free once you leave Western Europe or large cities but they have been some of my favourite travel adventures and Croatia is definitely doable with some preplanning. I would highly recommend taking some gluten free bread, pasta if you’re cooking and some snacks. The largest supermarkets had these options but you need to be really organised to buy them when you see them, or plan naturally gluten free meals whilst self catering. I found go free cornflakes pretty much everywhere but if they aren’t for you then consider packing an alternative. I found limited bread options and rarely saw pasta compared to its availability at home.
On road trips we tend to have cereal, yoghurts and fruit for breakfast and then make packed lunches/picnics for lunches. I usually choose to take the warburtons soft squares when travelling as they can be eaten without toasting them and tend to hold up pretty well in luggage! I also take a couple of packets of tuna jacket toppings for an emergency as they don’t need to be kept refrigerated or need lots of extras.
We normally eat out in the cities with more gluten free options and self cater when in National Parks/Mountains etc. This worked well for us in Croatia and in every city I found a 100% gluten free or excellent gluten free restaurant or hotel to break up cooking for ourselves.
Croatia is so beautiful that coeliac really should not be a reason for not visiting. Have you visited Croatia? Leave your favourite gluten free restaurants and travel tips in the comments below, and if you’re yet to visit –
Happy Travels, with no gluten!
Note: Writing a gluten free travel blog is a passion project of mine but the website has an annual subscription cost so it actually costs me money to run. If you find my guides helpful please consider buying me a virtual coffee through my kofi link to help me run this free resource for gluten free travel. Thank you!
The Sightseeing Coeliac 